Who are at800 & why are they sending me mystery packages?

Recently you may have received some post & or a box from an organisation called at800 & wondered what it was all about, or you may have just thrown it away with the rest of the daily junk mail!

It is, however, an important bit of post to read and understand, as you may soon lose or have interference on some of your Freeview TV stations.

The reason you may have difficulties receiving some stations is that the Government & Ofcom have sold some broadcasting frequencies, that were used for Freeview, to mobile phone companies.

The mobile phone companies will use these frequencies to provide the new 4G signal. This allows much faster mobile download speeds and makes using a SmartPhone much easier and far less frustrating.

The frequencies that have been sold are right next to the ones we still use for TV signals which is why there might be some interference experienced for some viewers.

The frequencies have been chosen specifically because they give a high level of coverage and penetrate walls & roofs better than some other available frequencies.

What's in the box?

Your at800 filter will arrive in a box like this.

If you're in an area that is very likely to have interference problems, at800 will have sent, or will be sending you a free filter in the post. It will arrive in a small box and have everything needed for most people to resolve interference problems.

The contents of your at800 package

Once you open your box please check that you have the following items. 

1 Filter

1 Small aerial cable (with male & female ends)

1 Set of instructions

Adhesive Velcro pads

What do I do with it all?

There are various ways that an aerial system can be set up in your home & below we'll take you through how to connect the filter to them. The four options are:

1. One aerial which is connected to a distribution amplifier (normally hidden in the loft) that supplies all of your TVs, Recorders & Set-top-boxes with a signal.
2. One aerial directly supplying one TV.
3. One aerial supplying a TV &  DVD Recorder/Freeview Recorder/YouView box/Set-top-box etc...
4. Multiple aerials supplying multiple TVs

Cable end "A" connected to socket "A"

Regardless which system your home has, you'll need to complete the following step before continuing.

Pick up the filter and find the socket marked "A".

Pick up the short aerial cable and find the end marked "A" 

Plug the cable into the filter so that "A" & "A" are lined up.

Now these are connected we will simply refer to the whole unit as "the filter".
Once happy you have done this correctly you are ready to follow one of the options below.

Setting up Option 1

Your first task is to locate your signal distribution amplifier. As mentioned already, these are normally found in the loft and as such can be a little bit tricky to get to. If you are unsure about ladder climbing or keeping your footing in the loft we suggest giving us a call on 01793 537971 so we can get an installer to come and do the work on your behalf for a moderate fee.

A typical distribution amplifier marked with UHF

If you are happy to be in the loft you should find a box with aerial cables connected to it.

It is always recommended to switch electrical items off at the mains before connecting or disconnecting any cables.

One of the cables that is plugged in will be coming straight from your aerial ready to be distributed around your home & is the only one you'll need to unplug.
The socket it will be connected to is normally called "UHF", "Aerial in", "IN" or have a logo that looks like a vertically split capital "T". Find this and disconnect it from the amplifier.

The filter connects between your aerial and the amp'.

Plug the cable you have just disconnected from the distribution amplifier into socket "B" on the filter.

Now connect the other end of the filter in to the empty connection on the distribution amplifier you've just created.

Turn the amplifier back on & check your TVs are working as normal.

Setting up Option 2

Position your TV so you can see the input panel on the back & switch the power off at the mains.

You should see your aerial plugged in to the antenna socket. This will normally be marked with "Antenna", "Aerial", "RF Input" or even a logo that looks a bit like a vertically split capital "T" (as seen in the photo). 

This is the cable you need to disconnect.

If you have a games console, DVD or Blu-Ray player connected, you'll need to ensure you don't disturb these connections.

Plug the aerial cable that you've just disconnected from the TV in to the socket marked "B" on the filter.

Plug the other end of the filter in to the now empty socket on the TV.

Switch the TV back on and check everything is working as expected

If you are worried about the filter hanging down and being visible once it is fitted use the supplied Velcro patches to fix the filter to the TV as seen in the photo.

Setting up Option 3

Position your Recorder or Set-top-box so that you can see the inputs on the back & switch off at the mains.

Generally, as with a TV, you will see a socket marked "Antenna", "Aerial", "RF Input" or even a logo that looks a bit like a vertically split capital "T" (see photo above). This will have your aerial cable connected & is the cable you need to disconnect.

Plug the aerial cable that you've just disconnected from the Recorder or Set-top-box in to the socket marked "B" on the filter.

Plug the other end of the filter in to the now empty socket on the Recorder or Set-top-box.
Switch back on at the mains and check everything is working as expected

Setting up Option 4

Option 4 actually isn't an option in its' own right. What you will find are combinations of Options 1-3 that need to be worked through individually. By working out which of the 3 options above apply to each TV/aerial you are trying fix, you will be able to follow the instructions above to resolve the problems one-by-one 

What else do I need to do?

In theory you don't need to do anything else than follow the instructions above. You don't need to add or disconnect any other cables in your system and you shouldn't need any other equipment to make things work.

If you do get stuck however, please feel free to give us a call on 01793 537971 where we can book in one of our engineers to come out and get things sorted for you.

Although at800 believe the filter will, for the majority affected TVs, resolve the interference, there will be instances where the interference is simply too strong. In these circumstances, at800 should have some other solutions for you to consider and should be contacted on 0333 3131800 or via enquiries@at800.tv 

How do I improve the sound on my TV?

Modern TVs sound rubbish.
We're happy to be up-front about this & if asked, most TV manufacturers would probably agree. There simply is no space for a decent set of speakers inside today's TVs, they are too thin and have very little frame to accommodate them. To make matters worse it's our own fault. The buying public, have over the last few years, swayed towards the most compact frames & thinnest sets available. This is therefore the trend the manufacturers have followed, resulting in worse & worse sound quality.
Click here to find in out more detail why new TVs have poor sound.

Getting better sound for your viewing experience is a relatively easy upgrade & there are various ways you can achieve it. Some options will run into thousands of pounds while others could only be a tenner.

A SoundBar could be the ideal
 solution for your audio woes.

The most common options include:

• A full HiFi separates Home-Cinema system (5.1 or upwards)
• An all-in-one Home-Cinema system (5.1)
• An all-in-one Home-Cinema system (2.1)
• A SoundBar, 2.1 audio system or Pedestal
• Using existing HiFi equipment

The big question is which option suits your needs best?

HiFi separates Home-Cinema system (5.1 or upwards)

A HiFi separates Home-Cinema system is the premium solution for your TVs sound quality problem. Available from various different manufacturers and in a massive range of prices, these systems can provide stunning sound quality with huge amounts of volume, making them ideal for the larger listening area or for those wanting the best sound quality. Options available on this type of set up include up to & over 9.1 surround sound (nine speakers around the room plus one sub-woofer) with 200 watts of power per speaker.  As the items that make up these systems are made by HiFi manufacturers you also have the benefit of being able to play music at high quality too. This could mean that instead of having a Hifi & a Home-Cinema, you'd listen to everything through just the Home-Cinema.

This type of system does, however, have downsides, these being the level of complexity it will add to your system, the choices you need to make when buying it & the amount of room they generally take up.

For a full HiFi separates Home-Cinema system you'll need at least these 3 items.

A HiFi separates Home-Cinema consists of your choice of speakers, your choice of AV receiver/amplifier & normally your choice Blu-ray player (your existing Blu-ray or DVD will connect in if you want to continue using it). Because of these choices, this type of system has become less common in the average living room but still offers the best sound. A system like this will probably start from a minimum of £700 for reasonably good quality brands but can easily run in to thousands. Even from our range, which does not reach the very top end, we can supply just the receiver/amplifiers for over £2000. The flexibility in being able to mix-&-match different makes with each other is often very appealing because it allows you to get exactly what you want without compromise.

Another advantage of buying separates is that you are also able to change components as & when you want or need to. This means that if your Blu-ray stops working you can simply replace it & carry on using the rest of the system as normal. We have customers using the amplifier & speakers that were supplied over ten years ago with their brand new HD TV & Blu-ray player. The amp' may not be bang up-to-date but still provides great quality surround sound.

All-in-One Home-Cinema systems (5.1)

All-in-One Home-Cinema systems have been the most popular way for people to improve there sound quality for the last eight or nine years. Coming in at significantly lower prices than the HiFi separates & with less choice to make, they have found their way into many people living rooms. The reason they have been so popular is that they are easy to use, easy to setup and generally quite compact. They also have everything built-in to one unit. Blu-ray, DVD, CD, radio, iPod connections, amplifier & now Smart TV with music & video streaming services can all be included. This reduces the clutter, cabling & number of remote controls that seem to fill the modern living room.

All-in-One home cinema systems come with various speaker styles to match your needs & home decoration.

All-in-One 5.1 systems tend to come with a variety of different speaker sizes & although not with the same size of selection as HiFi separates, their should be an option suitable for your room.

• Option 1 uses five very small speakers (the size of soup tins or smaller), paired with a small-ish sub-woofer. This is great if you need to place the speakers in awkward places or need them to be as discreet as possible. These tend to be the lower end of the all-in-one systems & are great for the smaller living room. The sound will still be much better than your TV's but you won't be able to drive them as hard as the more expensive options.
• Option 2 generally offers more bass and more power allowing you to drive the system a little harder & really get into the explosions or car chases in your favorite action movie. This option will most likely also play your music back at a higher quality too. Because the speakers are slightly larger, positioning them may be slightly more tricky.
• Option 3 will normally be very similar in performance to option 2 but has a very different impact on the positioning of the speakers. These are designed to sit on the floor & are quite large speakers to find space for. If you struggle for floor space or have children or pets, you may find they get knocked over or damaged because of their placement.

Despite their popularity, All-in-One kits do have their downsides.

• Firstly, the sound quality tends to be fine for watching TV or films, but you are likely to find that music will feel a bit flat & like there's something missing that you can't quite put your finger on. If you're a fan of music, this might mean having to have a HiFi to play music on too.
• Secondly, you can't upgrade them. For example, a few years ago Blu-ray was launched giving people access to HD movies. If you had an All-in-One system you needed to replace it all to be able to watch these discs. A couple of years later 3D Blu-ray came out & people had to change again.
• Thirdly, but tied in to the above, faults are an issue. If the Blu-ray player stops working, you lose the whole kit while it's being repaired. If it can't be repaired you have to replace the whole thing.

As the price on these systems is significantly lower than HiFi separates many people accept that they might need to change them more often to keep them up-to-date.

Apart from the speakers, All-in-One Home Cinema systems take up very little space under your TV.

An all-in-one Home-Cinema system (2.1)

An all-in-one Home-Cinema system (2.1) works along exactly the same principles as it 5.1 sibling. The big difference here is that they are aimed at people that don't have room for 5.1 or people that simply don't want speakers all around the room. As desire for anyone purchasing this type of machine seems to be to minimise clutter, these systems generally have only the small-mid sized speakers. Quite often we see the speakers being placed next to the main unit on the stand under the TV. This wont give you the best stereo effect but will boost the sound quality significantly.

A 2.1 Home-Cinema system fantastic for the smaller room or to keep clutter to a minimum.

A SoundBar, 2.1 audio system or Pedestal

A SoundBar or 2.1 audio system is a very simple way to get better sound quality from your TV. These items are purely an audio booster. They don't play DVD or Blu-ray, don't have an iPod dock or radio, in fact they have nothing built-in at all. They plug directly in to your TV and let the sound (for whatever is being displayed on the screen) come through their speakers, giving you a much more impressive sound.

A SoundBar  is a horizontal speaker that sits either in-front of your TV on the TV stand or hangs on the wall underneath your TV. They come in a couple of different sizes to compliment the variety of different TV screen sizes that are available.

A 2.1 system is just 2 small speakers & a sub-woofer connected to the TV in the same way as a SoundBar. 

Some SoundBars are multi-purpose and will split in the middle to form a 2.1 system. This give you a bit more flexibility in positioning your speakers in the room.

The picture on the right shows a Panasonic SCHTB550 in both SoundBar & 2.1 layouts.

A Pedestal design is something relatively new to market & sits directly underneath your TV, on top of your TV stand. The only one we have seen so far is the Bose Solo. This type of design is probably the most compact of all the options.

With the Bose Solo there is no sub-woofer, which means even less cabling, nor do you have to find space to put speakers. Instead the Solo sits in the same footprint as your TV & raises it by approximately 70mm (3") but for most people this should create no problem at all.

The sound quality is big jump compared your TV but bay not be as heavy on the bass when compared to a 2.1 or SoundBar system.

Using existing HiFi equipment

This is possibly the quickest and easiest way to improve your TVs sound & is something I've been doing at home for years. Most decent TVs have had audio outputs hidden away somewhere on the rear or side panels. Historically they have been red & white RCA (phono) connectors and have "Audio out", "Line out" or an audio out symbol, most HiFi's have corresponding "Aux in", "Audio in" or "Line in" sockets of the same design. If you connect these together using a stereo RCA (phono) cable you can use you HiFi to handle the sound from your TV. Ideally you should have a speaker either side of your TV, but many people are happy just to have better sound, regardless of the speaker positions.

The stereo RCA (Phono) connections and the cable that plugs into (left) and the newer Digital Optical Audio output socket & associated cable that is found on most new TVs (right)

Some newer TVs may no longer have the RCA (Phono) connections. If this is the case, the chances are your TV will have a Digital Optical Audio output instead. This does the same job, but with a higher quality digital signal capable of transferring stereo & 5.1 surround sound. Your HiFi would also need to have a Digital Audio input for this type of connection.

Come in & see us!

Hopefully this blog will have given you ideas or encouragement to improve your TVs sound. If it has & you would like our help to get you up & running, please give us a call on 01793 537971 or visit us in-store where we are more than happy to answer your questions and demonstrate the various option for you.

To see our range of SoundBars, Home-Cinemas & 2.1 systems, please visit our website

www.HickmansOldTown.com or come & visit us in store.

You can also keep up to date with our offers & promotions through www.facebook.com/HickmansOldTownLtd

or @HickmansOldTown on twitter.

Why don't new TVs sound very good?

TVs have probably changed more in the last 15 years than at any time since 1967 when colour transmissions started on BBC2. In this relatively short period of time we have seen huge improvements in almost all aspects of using a TV. These advances include the following :

• Square (4:3) shaped screens have changed to widescreen (16:9).
• Inefficient analogue signals have given way to the new digital ones.
• We had seen the introduction of HD broadcasting.
• Ceefax & Teletext have been replaced by interactive services such as BBCi
• We can now use our TVs to watch iPlayer or other on demand services instead of recording.
• TV's can now let you access Skype, twitter or Facebook as social networking gets ever popular.
• Trudging to the rental store has all but gone as we stream movies via broadband instead. 
• 32" screen sizes are now considered small. 15 years ago, 36" was as big as you could get.
• TVs in bedrooms for children was still considered a luxury instead of a standard fitting.
• Mounting a TV on the wall was a feet of structural engineering and only really happened in pubs or hotels to keep them out of reach of the public.

All these improvements have been fantastic for the consumer & made using a TV more enjoyable than ever before. There has however been been one big casualty through this period. Sound quality.

Old fashioned CRT TVs

15 years ago, TVs were huge, not by screen size, but by sheer bulk. Larger TVs could be almost 2ft (600mm) deep & often had 4-6 inches (100-150mm) of plastic frame around the edge of the screen. A lot of this bulk was unavoidable & simply dictated by the size of the Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) technology that was used to produce the picture.

The up-side for this bulk was that speakers could be placed in less conventional positions. They were often placed behind the CRT itself with ports directing the sound out of grills at the front.

We also saw TVs that had sub-woofers on top of the CRT, sometimes inside the main casing, or inside an additional clip on unit. They were out of sight when watching the TV but added valuable depth to the sound quality.

The beauty behind this was that the designers didn't have to worry too much about the audio, they could fairly easily provide a quality of sound that all but the most critical viewer would happily accept.

The early flat-panel TVs

The early generations of flat-panel TVs didn't fare too badly with their sound quality. At the start, manufacturers overcame the space limitations by placing speakers at the side of the screens, at the bottom of the screens and by placing smaller bass speakers behind the screens.

Even so, the depth of these new TVs was a revelation compared to the old CRT sets and even this Panasonic from 2006, with a depth of 6 inches (150mm) was considered slim. The manufacturers were not adding depth to the sets to incorporate these speakers. They were simply fitting the speakers in around the vast amount of boards, heat-sinks & other components that were needed for the TVs to work.

By 2005, manufacturers had started to realise that the design of the TV was becoming almost as important as the picture & sound quality. The picture below shows how much the design of a 32" LCD from Panasonic changed from one range to the next. The later TV offered much sleeker lines and far less frame around the screen. The obvious speakers on the earlier set have been replaced with hidden speakers on the newer design but are still found either side of the TV screen.

Today's flat panel TVs

The trend for TVs to become more streamlined has continued & been made easier as components have got smaller allowing  more of then to be squeezed on to each circuit board. As this trend continued and further advancements such as LED back-lighting appeared, more pressure was put on the space needed to accommodate a decent set of speakers. At this point different manufacturers approached the design of their TVs differently, some sacrificed the size of the speakers to suit the styling of the TV, others sacrificed the styling in the pursuit of better sound. Fairly quickly it became obvious that the more stylish TVs were preferred by the consumer & if required extras speakers could solve the sound problem.

The picture above gives you an idea how far the casing around a Plasma TV has shrunk between 2004 & 2012. The later TV does have speakers built in, but watching anything other than a soap opera or the news may leave you feeling disappointed. You certainly wouldn't, by choice, want to watch the Proms or an action film as there would be many aspects of the audio missing from your experience.

The images above show a top-end 32" from 2006 compared with a mid-range 32" from 2012. It's quite clear how much smaller the newer TV is. The photo in the middle shows a speaker taken from an older LCD lined up next to a new set. The new set is almost half the depth of the speaker & graphically shows the reason why newer TVs have such poor sound reproduction, there is simply no room to do it.

It's a conspiracy!

We've had quite a few people coming in to our store saying that the poor sound quality is all part of a conspiracy from the manufacturers to make us buy additional equipment so we can enjoy TV. I can see where this idea has come from a consumers perspective but highly doubt that this is the case. One of the reasons I doubt this is because the degradation of sound quality has been a slow and continual process. If Panasonic, Sony or Samsung wanted to force people to buy home-cinema systems they would simply take the speakers out completely or would have jumped from the reasonable quality found in 2004 straight to today's standards for the 2005 range. They didn't do this & have been developing speakers ever since to try and maintain as much sound quality as possible. Unfortunately they are fighting an uphill battle against styling and consumer preference.

To see our range of products that will help improve the sound quality of your TV please visit our web site www.HickmansOldTown.com

Or for our blog about improving the sound quality of your TV 
please click here!

How important are Energy Labels?

How important are Energy Labels?

If you're about to set off to buy a new TV or washing machine, the chances are you'll notice the energy labels that are stuck to the front them. With bright colours, logos & numbers printed all over them they can be a bit daunting and confusing to understand. They don't always tell you the whole story either.

What do they tell me? 

Energy labels have the same basic design regardless of the product they are attached to but will be tailored to suit the specific item. As a result the information detailed on the energy labels will vary to include all relevant information. The  picture below shows the variations on Energy Labels that you are likely to see when buying a new TV or Domestic Appliance.

1. The energy rating given to the item.
2. The amount of energy used by the item over a year at average usage levels.
3. The size of a TV screen.
4. The wattage for the TV.
5. The capacity in litres that a fridge or fridge-freezer hold for chilled food.
6. The capacity in litres that a fridge or fridge-freezer hold for frozen food.
7. The noise produced while the machine is in use.
8. The amount over water used on average over a year.
9. The maximum weight of dry clothes that a washing machine can hold.
10. The spin drying performance of a washing machine
11. The amount of noise produced during the wash cycle for a washing machine.
12. The amount of noise produced during the spin cycle for a washing machine.
13. The drying performance for a dishwasher.
14. The amount of place settings that a dishwasher can hold.
15. The condensation efficiency for a tumble dryer.
16. Time to complete an average full cotton load
17. Load capacity for a tumble dryer
18. Type of tumble dryer, Vented/Condensing/Gas Fired

The labels are designed to be used all over Europe and as a result rely heavily on pictures & numbers to convey their message with only limited use of multi-lingual text where required.

Many appliances now have additional Eco settings that will reduce their consumption beyond the quoted levels on the energy labels allowing you to save even more money.

What don't they tell me? 

Although energy labels are a very useful tool to use when buying a new product they do not tell you everything you might need to know. If you are truly concerned about the total environmental impact of a product you will sadly have a lot of research to carry out & even then will probably not get all the bits of the jigsaw you need to make a choice. If on the other hand you are simply concerned about the impact on your pocket when you use a product, the standard energy labels should do the trick for you.

Amongst other details energy labels are not able to give you the following information:

• How energy efficient the factory that made the product is
• How much energy will be required to recycle the product at the end of its life span
• How long to expect an item to last for.
• How well an item actually performs or how much you are going to enjoy using it.
• How well it will look after your food, clothes or dishes.
• How efficient it is with detergent or how much unused detergent is sent down your drain.

One of the Panasonic LCD display factories in Japan. Panasonic are currently aiming to become the number 1 Green Innovation Company in the electronics industry in time for  their centenary celebrations. The should ensure that from start to finish Panasonic products are the most environmentally friendly available. 

What should I look out for?

When buying a new product & looking at energy labels it is important to ensure that you are comparing products like-for-like. If you don't you may well find that you have not got the most efficient machine. For example.

It is no good comparing a 100L capacity freezer to a 150L capacity freezer while only looking at the energy rating. Both machines might have an A+ rating but the 150L machine is almost guaranteed to use more power due to its larger capacity. In this instance it would be better for your pocket in the long run to buy the 100L model, but only if its big enough for your needs.

or

If you live on your own you may not need to buy a 10kg capacity washing machine. Even though it might be the most efficient according to the A-G ratings it may use more power and water than a 6kg machine that might suit your needs better. If you're happy to wait & only do your washing with a full load the 10kg will be fine. If you cant do this, a smaller drum size may be a better solution for you.

Is there anything else I should take into account?

In addition to taking note of the energy labels there are other things that you should take into account when buying a new electrical product. Some of these considerations will have an impact on your overall expenditure whilst others are based on personal preference, gut instinct or historical bias towards or away from a particular brand.
Below are some examples of other things to take into consideration that an Energy label cannot convey:

• Personal preference.

Its no good comparing LCD & Plasma TVs if all you look at are the energy ratings. An LCD will almost certainly use less power per inch than a Plasma, but, you may prefer the picture on the Plasma screen. For similar quality picture & screen size, a Plasma TV may well cost you less to buy when compared to an LCD, offsetting any additional expense on running costs.

• Value for money.

Buying low cost domestic appliances may save you money on the initial purchase but will not look after your clothes as well as a more expensive machine. This will mean your clothes wearing out more quickly, losing shape & colour & needing to be replaced more often. 

Lower cost electrical items also generally need replacing more often or require more repairs. This adds to the overall cost of the machine during its lifespan. You will also find that more expensive machines tend to be more efficient, saving you money on running costs in the long term.
You should not decide something is good value for money based purely on the initial purchase price.

• Choosing a particular brand because of past experiences: Part 1

"I want another Zanussi because mines's lasted 25 years and only gone wrong twice" is a phrase we come across quite often, but having pre-conceived ideas like these often have little basis in modern reality. Just because your Zanussi machine lasted 25 years does not mean that a new one will. Nor does it mean that the majority of machines from that period lasted that long.

What is also important to remember is that a brands position in the market changes over time. Only 10-15 years ago Samsung was a small player in the TV market and was regarded as a budget brand by most dealers. Today they are the No.1 worldwide selling TV manufacturer. In the same period Philips, JVC, Hitachi & Sanyo among others have almost disappeared from the TV market.

• Choosing a particular brand because of past experiences: Part 2

Writing off a particular brand because of a bad experience may also be a bad idea. Very occasionally we will have customer saying they will  never have a Bosch, Siemens or Panasonic item ever again because "they had a nightmare" with a previous item. This opinion though is normally based on a sample of 1 item. From our side of the fence we get to see hundreds of products from the same brand delivered every year & are able to give a broader view of a brands reliability, strengths & weaknesses. 

Conclusion

Energy Labels are important. They have been instrumental in getting the manufacturers to focus on reducing energy & water consumption. For this reason alone they have been a huge success for both the consumer and in the long run, the environment too.
This said, Energy Labels should not be the only deciding factor when purchasing a new product. They are a useful guide to help judge a product on easily quantifiable facts, but not for gauging long term quality, design or overall environmental impact from factory to recycling.

For these reasons we always suggest it's worth coming into the shop to discuss your options with one of our assistants who will happily guide you through the whole process, including delivery & installation.

To see our range of Domestic Appliances and Home Entertainment equipment please visit us in store or visit our web site at www.HickmansOldTown.com

Plasma or LCD/LED TV?

One of the questions we get asked most in the shop is "what's better? Plasma or LCD".  It's also one of the more difficult questions for us to answer. More recently the queries have also included LED's (full name LED LCD's) which apart from the method of illumination are essentially the same as traditional LCD TV's.

The Panasonic 42" VT30, recently awarded What HiFi's TV of the Year prize .

I have always been a big fan of Plasma TV's. I say this now as a reminder to myself to try and remove bias from this blog and also as a pointer for you towards my personal preference. I have also always had a general disliking of LCD pictures. This is probably a historic view and is based on the original LCD and Plasma TV's that first hit the domestic market 10+ years ago. At that time the picture quality difference between Plasma & LCD TV was massive.
The Plasma screens, whilst hugely expensive, were designed as TV's/Video displays from the outset & did produce good pictures. They were also viewable from anywhere in the room which suited peoples normal viewing habits. Slightly later, LCD's arrived on the shelves and were no where near in comparison. They could not be viewed from the sides, below or above and could not keep up with even the slowest football game without smearing the image. This said people did slowly start to buy the LCD's, possibly convinced by the slim design or their desirability, but this did allow the manufacturers to develop the product and improve on the obvious flaws in the design. Over the years LCD's have improved massively and removed most of the flaws from their original design, and now for most peoples needs, are an excellent option to replace the old CRT (tube) TV.

An early Panasonic 32" LCD 

Since LCD's have become the mass market screen of choice Plasma has almost become the forgotten technology to the general public. This is probably due to the fact that Plasma TV's are only available in larger screen sizes (42" & above) and as such are greatly outsold by LCD.  These are able to be used in anything from your mobile phone to a 60"+ screen. The improvement in Plasma TV's during the last 10 years may not have been as large or as obvious as that of LCD's, but they did have a big head start and in my view are still ahead in terms of pure picture performance.

The differences between Plasma & LCD/LED screens for me mainly fall into three areas. This obviously does not cover the many differences in the design and construction, but more the final results on the screen.

1. Black Levels
2. Brightness/Vividness
3. Motion Smearing/Pixel response time

Area 1:

Black levels on TV's seems like an odd thing to consider when you're going out to buy one, but they do play a critical role in picture quality. Having a darker level of black on the screen means that colours can also be richer and more accurate. It also means that those dark and moody horror films are all the more engrossing as the monsters appear from the inky black backgrounds. Plasma TV's have always excelled in this area and despite big strides by their counterpart will more than likely always have the edge. If you looking for a set with a more natural picture and are going to be watching TV in a normally lit room a Plasma is going to be a good solution.

This picture shows 6 TVs all displaying the same black image. The  3 Plasma TVs are clearly distinguishable as the pictures are far nearer to pure black than the 3 LED/LCD TVs

Area 2:
Picture brightness is an area where LCD's really can excel, even more so with the latest generation LED versions. LCD's are illuminated in a few different ways, either from behind with a  number of CCFL's or a matrix of LED's, although this is still uncommon and relatively expensive. LED's generally are placed at the edge with their light diffused across the back of the screen. This is the most common type of LED TV and has the advantage of also being very thin. Because they are illuminated they can be driven harder to produce a brighter picture. This obviously has a big advantage when placing the TV in a either a very brightly lit room or one that has lots of windows and natural light. Because of this additional brightness the colours tend to be very vivid (although potentially very unnatural in my opinion) and will suit some peoples tastes more than a Plasma TV. They also tend to be more suited for use as large screen PC monitors or in some ways for use with games consoles. Historically LCD's have also tended to suffer from less reflection on screen, however some newer sets now have a glossy finish that mimics the glass screen on a Plasma TV, these seem reflect more light than the older versions.

A naked CCFL back lighting array 

This picture shows 6 TVs all displaying the same white image. The  3 LED/LCD TVs are clearly distinguishable as the pictures are far brighter than the 3 Plasma TVs

This picture shows 6 TVs all displaying the same white rectangle on black background image.
In this shot you can see that the brightness on each of the LED/LCDs has fallen and is nearer to the levels found on the Plasma screens. The black areas are still however nowhere near those on the Plasma TVs

Area 3:
Motion Smearing and Pixel Response time has historically been very different between the two screen types. LCD's firstly became popular in the computer market where the desire to have laptops and also space saving desktop displays became apparent. For these roles the poor pixel response time and motion smearing were not of particular concern. At the time PC's did not really require the super quick response times that people expected from their TV screens, except perhaps for the hardcore gamers who would have stuck with their larger but generally better suited CRT monitors. This however did not stop the development within the industry to improve these issues with LCD screens. As the response times came down the idea of using them as TV screens became more attractive. LCD's now offer images that, in general perform extremely well under most circumstances and have a level of smearing that most people can happily accept when watching TV.
They do, however, have a long way to go to catch up with Plasma TV's. A modern LCD has a response just under 2 milliseconds, compared with the old CRT's of under 1ms and Plasma TV's at .001ms. The quicker response time not only makes Plasma TV's better at handling quick motion but also more suited to high quality 3D images. Plasma's can also be  better for gaming where details during fast moving scenes need to be sharp and clear.

Additional but less critical differences between the two technologies include Power Consumption, Screen Burn and Viewing Angles.

Power Consumption is a thorny subject at the moment and will probably only get worse over time as we all become more environmentally concious and concerned about our spending. LCD's, and in particular those using LED lighting, are the most energy efficient amongst these three technologies. Plasma's do use more power but not as much as you may think when reading the labels on the back of the sets. Some current Panasonic sets highlight this for me. The 42" LED's rated power is 102watts but during average use will use about 70watts. This compares with the 42" Plasma (which is higher up in the range and also 3D) that has a rated power of 325watts but drops down to 130watts during average use. If you prefer the picture on a Plasma TV, the minimal extra running cost should be outweighed by your enjoyment of set.

Screen Burn can be an issue on both types of screen, but has generally been more common on Plasma displays. On most new sets, when used for everyday TV viewing, screen burn is almost a thing of the past. There is still the chance of screen burn if the sets are used in a manner contrary to their design. These sets are designed to display moving images and although they will display photos or static graphics, it is not their main purpose. If you do leave a static image on screen for long periods you can permanently damage the picture. A static image could also include the speedo' or health bar from your favourite game or the DOG that certain TV stations are determined to plaster over your favourite show. An example of a bad DOG below shows the Disney channel logo in the bottom left of the screen. This logo is very bright and is a solid colour. This will quite quickly start to burn into a Plasma screen if left unchecked. DOG's such as the BBC three logo below will not burn in because they are low intensity and also semi translucent.

Lastly Viewing Angles. Generally the issue that LCD's had with very poor angles has, on the vast majority of decent sets, ceased to be a problem. The picture will still lose brightness as you go off centre but even at 70-80 degrees they are now perfectly viewable. Smaller LCD's and lower priced models will still suffer from this issue, in some cases severely.

At this point I would also like to point out that there are some rumours that have persisted over the years about Plasma's. These include "don't Plasma's have to be re-gassed?", "I've been told that I have to occasionally turn Plasma's upside down to re-distribute the gas" & "if a Plasma screen breaks will I need to mop up the plasma as it leaks out". These and other rumours have been muttered to us many times over the years and we really don't know the exact source of them. Needless to say however they are all completely false and baseless. A Plasma or LCD TV needs no special attention at all other than the right cleaning materials. 

In Conclusion

If you have no particular requirement our advice is quite simple. 

Choose the set that you think has the best picture.

At home you'll have nothing to compare it to, and will be delighted with the set. 

If anyone tells you 100% categorically that one is better than the other, they probably have an agenda for doing so.

To see our range of Plasma & LCD/LED TVs, please visit our website

www.HickmansOldTown.com or come & visit us in store.

You can also keep up to date with our offers & promotions through www.facebook.com/HickmansOldTownLtd

or @HickmansOldTown on twitter.

What's the right choice, Active or Passive 3D?

3DTV has been one of the buzz words in the TV industry over the last couple years. The quality of 3D film and TV production has improved dramatically as has the ability to watch it at home on your TV. Thankfully the days of using the red & green cardboard glasses to gave you a 3D effect but ruined the colour have now gone & 3D today is in full colour and also in HD.

There are, however, two main types of 3DTV that you can buy for your living room, both of which require the viewer to wear either Active or Passive 3D glasses. Both types will work with the industry standard 3D transmissions and 3D movies that you can buy on Blu-Ray, ensuring there are no compatibility problems.

Active 3D
Active 3D is the preferred method of watching 3D for those that are after the very best picture quality. It works in a very similar way to the 3D IMAX theatres & provides you with a Full HD (1920x1080p resolution) image to each eye. The glasses are generally powered by built-in batteries, some are rechargeable via USB. From 2012 the active glasses from the big brand names will be interchangeable between different manufacturers, meaning you can take your Panasonic glasses to your friends house and watch 3D on their Sony TV!

The glasses themselves blank off your vision so that only one eye at a time can see the TV. The lenses switch on/off in turn at high speed to match the image that is on the TV. It happens so quickly that your eyes can't distinguish between the two slightly different images that are being thrown at them and your brain puts them together to form a 3D picture.
If you watch a 3DTV without glasses you can see both images at the same time showing slightly different perspectives of the same scene. 

Active 3D glasses are slightly heavier than their Passive 3D cousins but are now light enough that it makes little or no difference. They should also fit over the top of all but the bulkiest spectacles allowing you to wear both if you need to. 

Active glasses do cost considerably more than Passive ones. This is due to the fact that they have a lot of technology packed in to give you the very best picture possible. If you're planning on having lots of friends and family over to watch 3D this might be slightly prohibitive with prices up to £60 per pair.

On the other hand if you're looking for the best picture and enjoy watching films or sporting events with your partner or children Active is the best choice.



Passive 3D
Passive 3D is the name given to the system used in most cinemas up and down the country. It's also what's employed by Sky & LG to get 3D into pubs & clubs. Passive 3D allows many users to watch 3D at relatively low cost. Glasses can cost as little as £2, allowing the casual viewer to either buy some at the bar & watch the match alongside another 30-40 people in the pub, or so that your extended family can gather round and watch the big Christmas movie without breaking the bank.

Passive glasses come in a variety of styles and colours and because they're much lower cost can be replaced easily if lost or broken.
You may also be able to use the glasses you bought in the cinema to watch your new Passive 3DTV.
The downside to Passive 3D is that the picture quality is drastically reduced.
With Active 3D the Full HD image is sent to each eye in turn. Passive 3D is very different.
Passive 3D uses filtration on the TV screen itself to split the image to be seen by each eye.

Half of the 1080 lines that cross the screen are polarised to emit horizontal light, the other half emit vertical light, the lenses in the Passive glasses only allow one type of light to pass through. Horizontal in one side and vertical in the other. The result is that the resolution that each eye sees is cut from 1080 lines down to 540 lines.

For the casual user or for large group viewing, this reduction in picture is really of no concern. It's also a great option to get 3D on a tighter budget or for the kids bedrooms to use with their PS3 or Xbox.

As you can see in the picture (to the left), when looking through the glasses each eye is missing half of the detail on the screen. Between each line of colour through the glasses is a black line, this is reversed for the other eye with the appropriate scene displayed instead. 



Conclusion
Whichever way you choose to get 3D you'll be glad that you did. The level of immersion into the film or sporting event you choose to watch is fantastic. It is also a great opportunity to create a family or friend get together.

We refer to 3D in the shop as "Event Viewing". By this we mean that it's not something you're going to use every day or even every week. It will however, likely be a big sporting event or movie that you can get everyone involved in. Making sure that you spend a few hours together as a family or with friends specifically to watch, enjoy and discuss a particular movie or game.

A great example of this was the "Strictly Come Dancing" final on BBC HD during December 2011. It's a show that crosses the age and gender divide and was recorded beautifully by the BBC. The 3D effect was fantastic and really impressed members of my family with its quality.
Society has accused TV of dividing the family & reducing the amount of quality time we spend with each other. Maybe with 3D and the advent of Smart TV this accusation can in some ways be rebuffed!

Option 3!
A third option has just been released in to the UK market that does not use glasses at all. The TV from Toshiba, which is currently 5-6 times the price of a Passive 3D set, use a complicated system of facial recognition and a lenticular display to "beam" the 3D image to up to 14 people in front of the TV.
I am yet to see this type of set in operation so can't really give an opinion on its quality. At the moment however, based on price alone, I think I'll stick with the glasses!

To see our range of 3D TVs, please visit our website

www.HickmansOldTown.com or come & visit us in store.

You can also keep up to date with our offers & promotions through www.facebook.com/HickmansOldTownLtd

or @HickmansOldTown on twitter.